What is Modal Fabric and is it a Sustainable Material?

What is Modal Fabric and is it a Sustainable Material?

The last few years have seen an increase in interest over what exactly our clothing is made of. With fashion being one of the most polluting industries in the world and startling photos of textile waste circulating across the internet, more people want to know if their clothes are contributing to the problem. 

With a rise in large fast fashion retailers mass-producing polyester clothes that do not break down adequately in landfills, there has been an emerging interest in natural fabrics like linen, cotton, and hemp. But finding out how sustainable the cultivation and production of these fabrics is has proved difficult. 

The production of fabrics can result in excessive use of water, chemicals, and energy. Using synthetic fibers in certain materials creates huge swathes of microplastic in our oceans and, eventually, our food. Furthermore, fabric production is frequently undertaken in countries with little to no labor protections, resulting in serious harm to the millions of workers who work closely with the chemicals used in processing. 

Modal fabric has become popular in recent years as a lower-footprint alternative to popular fabric viscose. It is especially used in underwear, activewear, basics, and household items like towels and sheets. While natural in origin, the sustainability status of this fabric is complicated and dependent on several factors. Let’s learn more about modal. 

What is Modal Fabric?

Modal fabric is the general name for a specific type of viscose, otherwise known as rayon. Rayon is a fabric made out of wood pulp, following a cellulose immersion process. Viscose is the most common type of rayon, made to mimic silk while using a slightly different chemical process in its production. 

Modal is another cellulosic fabric like these that is bio-based and manufactured but semi-synthetic. It is highly breathable, lightweight, and comfortable. Modal is both durable and stretchy, making it useful for workout clothes, socks, and other high-wear items. It is also extremely water-absorbent, up to 50% more absorbent than cotton.

For its strength while wet, it is referred to as high wet modulus rayon. It is a high-quality, long-lasting fabric that can withstand multiple wears without pilling or stretching. It is also color-fast, absorbing dyes well and helping your clothes to look their best for a long time. 

What is Modal Fabric Made From?

Image Credit: CreativeNature_nl via Envato Elementd

Modal fabric is made from the pulp of the beech tree. Harvested beech trees are converted into wood chips and then wood pulp. This pulp is turned into cellulose which is soaked into different chemicals to eventually create fibers.

The fibers are then washed, bleached, dried, and turned into yarn, creating modal fabric. Since it is made from the natural products of plants, this fabric is biodegradable, adding to its appeal as a sustainable alternative to other manufactured fabrics. 

Modal is often called “semi-synthetic” because of the harsh chemicals used in the production process (although less than used when making rayon) and because it is sometimes blended with other materials to add more strength to the fabric.  

Different Types of Modal Fabric

Modal was first created in Japan in the 1950s as an alternative to silk. It was then popularized by the Austrian company Lenzing AG, which is now a leading expert and one of the top producers of the fabric. This company has developed its own brand of modal, called TENCEL Modal fabric.

Modal created by Lenzing is highly prized as a sustainable fabric because they use strict environmental standards, recover over 90% of the chemicals used in the process, and only use sustainably harvested beech trees for their fabric. 

Other types of modal created by Lenzing include Modal Loft, Modal Sun, and Modal Pro. They also have two more luxurious versions of modal called Modal Micro and Modal Micro Air. These feature a tighter knit and therefore are softer than regular modal. Outside of Lenzing, modal is also produced in countries like China, India, Pakistan, and Indonesia. 

Is Modal Fabric Sustainable?

Image Credit: balls340 via Envato Elements

Classifying the sustainability of modal fabric can be tricky. This is largely because it’s highly dependent on the processes used to create the fabric and who it is being produced by. Overall, it is a bio-based fabric made from natural materials that biodegrade easily and does not use any by-products of oil like polyester and other manufactured fabrics. However, there are still some concerns with labeling this fabric as sustainable. 

Modal fabric is created from the wood pulp of beech trees, and the harvesting of these trees is one issue to consider in regard to sustainability. Companies like Lenzing commit to only harvesting beech trees from regenerative forests, but in other areas where modal is produced, deforestation is an issue. In tropical areas like Indonesia, many cases of native rainforests being cleared to make way for beechwood plantations have been reported. 

Another potential issue is the amount of toxic chemicals used in the production process. One of the steps in modal fabric production uses the infamous neurotoxic chemical carbon disulfide, which can then contaminate the air or water. Modal utilizes fewer chemicals overall than other viscose fabrics, but the risk of contamination is still serious. Luckily, eco-conscious companies have figured out how to recycle or reuse the chemical waste left over from production, preventing it from escaping into the environment. 

Finally, worker treatment is also a major concern in areas where modal is frequently produced, like China and India. Alongside underenforced or lackluster labor laws, workers are in close contact with the dangerous chemicals used, creating ethical concerns about its production. 

On a positive note, modal does have several redeeming qualities as a more sustainable option to fabrics like cotton and polyester. Beech trees use much less water than cotton, and therefore, modal fabric has a much smaller carbon footprint than cotton. Some studies estimate that modal uses 50% less water overall than traditionally dyed fabrics. The fabric is also durable and long-lasting, meaning less waste and water usage is needed overall. 

Image Credit: stokkete via Envato Elements

Pros and Cons of Modal Fabric

Modal fabric has many pros and cons to consider when looking for sustainable, comfortable fabrics to enjoy. 

The great things about modal are that:

• It’s comfortable, breathable, and lightweight.
• It’s long-lasting and durable.
• It’s made from natural materials and has a low water footprint.
• It’s versatile – it can be color-fast and absorbent for workout clothes or soft and luxurious for classic pieces.

Some causes for concern with modal fabric are:

• There is a high level of chemicals used in its production process.
• It can contribute to deforestation if companies are not using sustainable practices. 
• There is an ethical concern about the safety of workers in its creation.

Final Thoughts on Modal Fabric

Modal is a great fabric that can be very sustainable if produced mindfully. Many companies like Lenzing have committed to sustainably creating high-quality modal fabric. Modal fabric is versatile and long-lasting, making it a great addition to your wardrobe, reducing the need to replace clothes frequently. 

With so much greenwashing going on today, more people are demanding transparency in the production of their clothing. It’s important to do your research on not just what fabric is made of but how it is produced. If produced in a regenerative, sustainable way, modal can be a great alternative to cotton or polyester.